Wednesday, February 13, 2008

How Bazaar


One of the interesting things about living here is the bazaar. When I was first told they had bazaars here, I imagined old pictures of the middle east with people in turbans haggling for carpets and spices. Actually, they mostly carry fruits and vegetables. There's a bazaar in every neighborhood, but they're only open 1-2 days a week. Our local bazaar is open Thursday evenings and Friday mornings. Before I had class on Friday mornings and Thurs evenings, so I didn't get to the bazaar very often. Recently my schedule has changed, so hopefully I'll go more often. It's the best place for the freshest, cheapest produce. But it's also great to go for the experience!

The bazaar experience starts as soon as we leave the house. In the picture above, you can see my roommate pulling our bazaar cart. Most of the ladies own one, because you usually are stocking up on 8 pounds of produce when you go. Afterall, meat and canned goods are expensive! So if you're shopping to feed your family for a week, that's a lot of produce. And the people in our city are especially proud of their produce. On the fertile southern plain that we live on, there's plenty of great fruits and vegetables to go around. Of course, we don't buy that much produce in a week, but we like to blend in and save our backs, so we have a cart as well.

As soon as you start walking towards the bazaar, you know it's bazaar day. You see ladies from all over the neighborhood walking to or from the bazaar on the main street that goes there. That main street is also lined with street vendors that capitalize on the bazaar "traffic." The closer you get, the more vendors there are, until they look like their own bazaar in the block before the bazaar. And they sell everything! In that picture my roommate is carrying a laundry basket because we bought one on the street that day. You'll see rugs, blankets, baskets, tea pots, fruits, nuts, fish, and even chickens if you're lucky. They sell out of vans and trucks. Other ladies just sit with their goods spread out on the sidewalk.

The first time I went to the bazaar, I thought I was on a travel show! There was actually a band set up outside the bazaar playing local music. I haven't been that lucky again, though. When you get in the bazaar, it's crammed full of people. Ours, especially, because it's surrounded by a large fence. Inside people set up their own stands complete with tables and awnings. Talk about lively! People are walking up and down the aisles, and the sellers are shouting to sell their produce--"come here, ma'am! go ahead! we've got tomatoes! onions! onions! onions!" When you decide on a seller that has a good product and a good price, you tell them how much you want (quarter kilogram, half kilogram, kilogram, etc). They weigh it on a traditional scale with actual metal weights and balances. Usually each vendor carries a few things, and there are several vendors that carry the same thing. While there is mainly produce, that's not the only thing they carry. You can find herbs, spices, eggs, olives, cheese, rice, seeds, and nuts, as well as other random odds and ends. You could actually do most of your grocery shopping at the bazaar if you cook like a Turk.

Oh, and if you were wondering, since I don't want to look like a tourist and take a picture at our local bazaar (what will the neighbors say?), I took that bazaar picture on our friend's balcony of her local bazaar.

Friday, February 8, 2008

The week in pictures


1) Power outage. The power goes out occasionally here for anywhere from 2-45 min. It went out this week while I was on the elevator! Fortunately, we were just 2 inches from my floor, and our neighbors got the door open for us. Then we reheated dinner on our gas stove by candlelight.


2) Chinese food. We made the long trip (2 mini-buses) to the Chinese restaurant outside of town. Mmmm....beef with peppers, fried rice, egg drop soup, egg roll, and 2 dumplings. What a combo!


3) Ashure. This sweet "soup" (reminds me of oatmeal) is made every January and distributed to your neighbors. This was our second bowl. It's made with barley, chickpeas, white beans, raisins, and apricots, and flavored with (I think) cinnamon and cloves. Very sweet, very good. Tradition says it resembles what Noah ate when they got off the ark.


4) Red beans and rice. Jess brought home some smoked sausages from one of her trips, so we made Emeril's New Orleans-style Red Beans and Rice. It took all afternoon, but it's pretty good!


5) Pamuk. Our lap-kitten has gotten big, but she hasn't outgrown her desire to be near us. Or on top of us.

Friday, January 25, 2008

My Turkish Mothers

In my building there are 2 ladies, friends, that "adopted" my roommate and I. One lives on the 7th floor, the other the 2nd floor. They both have teenage daughters, but are happy to adopt 2 more. We always suspected it, but it was confirmed when my roommate's parents came to visit. We all were visiting with the 7th floor neighbors, and she told my roommate's mother, "I have 3 daughters: my daughter, your daughter, and her roommate." Our "mothers" fuss at us if we don't visit them every week. They fuss at us if we aren't wearing socks in the winter. When the cold weather came, they asked if we had warm blankets.

Usually we visit them separately. Sometimes if we come, they'll call and invite the other. Occasionally they'll come together to our house. One night my roommate and I were winding down at 10 pm, and they showed up at our doorstep with a plate of fruit and a plate of pastries. They said "we've come to you," handed me the food, and stepped inside. So I put on the pot of tea while my roommate picked up the living room. They visited with us for an hour or so and went home. They also showed up late one night to see Jess's parents before they left...


They have their differences though. When we go to the 7th floor, she offers us coke, cookies, and candy. The 2nd floor neighbor is more like my mom. She offers us tea and fruit. And she cooks for us. She came by one night and brought us something like a spinach quesadilla without cheese, made with homemade whole wheat tortillas. One night she dropped by to invite us to dinner. I had a bit of a cold, so my roommate told her we couldn't come because I wasn't well. Our neighbor went and returned a few min later with a tray full of food--soup, something like a dumpling stuffed with ground beef (icli kofte), and plenty of extra parsley so I can get the nutrients I need to feel better soon.


So, don't worry, at least there's one mother making sure that I eat a nutritious meal occasionally. And, if we're lucky, she'll teach us how to make some of the great food she serves us! Of course, that isn't to say that 7th floor has never cooked for us. Earlier this month when my roommate came back from out of town (at about 11:30 am), our 7th floor mother from her balcony saw my roommate with bags in tow. So a few min after Jess put her bags down, our neighbor showed up and invited us to breakfast! I love Turkish breakfast--scrambled eggs with tomato and onions, fresh bread with local honey, and a selection of cheeses. And don't forget the tea!

Of course, they were so excited to meet Jess's parents last month, and so I better get prepared for when my mom comes to visit! And my mom better prepare her stomach!

Wednesday, January 9, 2008

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

Wow, it really has been a while since I've blogged! I was so busy in December with Christmas preparations, and now it's back to the January calm. In some ways, my Christmas was relatively normal. My roommate's parents came to visit, so at least I spent Christmas with a family, even if it wasn't exactly mine. Christmas eve we went to church like normal, and our living room looked like a disaster area after opening presents, like any other Christmas.


Christmas morning we went to brunch at a friend's house, complete with cinnamon rolls and cheese grits, and then Christmas night my roommate, her mother, and I hosted dinner. Her parents brought a pork roast from America, which her mother cooked up for us. Delicious! I roasted a chicken, and we all made an assortment of traditional sides. We invited 2 Turkish girls who go to church with us, as well, and one of them brought stuffed grape leaves! So it was an interesting feast, but all seemed to enjoy it. We even got to exchange more presents after dinner. Hats and scarves seemed to be the theme.



So what was different this year, you wonder? Well, the immediate difference was that church was both in English and Turkish. We could actually buy any last minute groceries we needed on Christmas day with no trouble, and no one at the stores was wishing us "Merry Christmas." When we went to brunch, the hosting family's neighbors stopped by to see why there were so many foreigners coming to visit, and when brunch was over we broke into some spontaneous Christmas carols, in Turkish, and then read the Christmas story, in Turkish. But you know, I really liked it. It was different, but it was such a warm Christmas. Even when we were fixing dinner, we weren't really stressed out because we knew our guests wouldn't care if we were running a little late. I thought I would be stressed out by visiting with so many people on Christmas day, but I wasn't. It felt so inclusive, so focused on the reason for the season. Maybe I can take some of those traditions home with me.